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When compiling a ranking of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. Yet, situated prominently among these food titans is a simple salonu situated in a far-flung corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This compact Turkish spot, specialising in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been declared the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a prominent gastronomic guide. The honour has left the family completely surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” says a family member, alluding to his family’s dedication that culminated in their small restaurant securing such a prominent spot on a prestigious 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

This little venue, which used to be a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has retained much of its former feel. It seats just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking show, the interior remains essentially unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Offering: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the cuisine, and this restaurant certainly excels. The eatery’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a moist, juicy consistency.

The meat is then tossed into a large pan with flavours and oil, which are added in bit by bit. Once the savoury mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a pliable bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are added before the savoury meat is folded tightly inside.

The wrap is usually enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a mighty slap of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Basic Tantuni

There is also yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic called this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet profile.

Rising Above the Stars

Notably, this modest restaurant has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, following other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place full for less than £25, comparable experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that price.

A Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants featured and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It is not concerning luxury. London is an pricey city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the top service and best food but I do not agree with that,” states the owner.

“I feel what is most important is hospitality, kindness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he were in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the pitfalls of excess, and to reveal what is achievable if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

The Path of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the head chef behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel very pleased of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants need years to establish themselves, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum used to be very tired. She would go shopping in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a personal life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

A Recognition for the People

The restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” says the owner, pointing out the broader importance of this gastronomic triumph.